Lyrics

Mai Pen Rai

By Jimmy Shoals · Twelve Bars

Low tide showed the path through the coral in the sand She carried cloves in a cracked blue tin Sawa sawa, she said, and offered me her hand Said eat before the ocean comes walking in The Rock sat white above the morning swell Like a table set where a boat should be Said the ocean runs its own hotel Said it knows the schedule better than me She said every man who comes here thinks he's planned His own departure — on his own terms, his own time Said the tide has never understood that stand Says sawa sawa — and takes back what was mine The tide takes reservations, names, and shoes Turns your table to an island in the foam I watched her lantern crossing all the blues Some goodbyes row themselves home Her name was Asha — widow since the rains Said her husband took a dhow past Chwaka Bay Said the ocean kept him three whole tides in chains Then gave him back quiet with the morning gray She laughed with one hand over her glass Like grief was rude if you let it begin I tried something kind — she let it pass Said eat your fish before the sea comes in She knew the table would be water-locked by nine Had packed the cloves before the path had started filling in Said the ocean and I — we have an understanding fine Said pole pole — the sea knows what it's given The ladder knocked soft on the restaurant wall First little waves came in beneath the floor She watched the water cover the coral path and all Said she'd seen men learn this before The tide takes reservations, names, and shoes Turns your table to an island in the foam I watched her lantern crossing all the blues Some goodbyes row themselves home By sunset the sand road was gone below Just a silver crease where the reef had been Asha tapped her ash in a bottle cap — slow Said "Men always call it leaving. I've seen." She packed the last of it and said don't wait The boat came when she gave a certain call Said kwaheri — soft — and didn't hesitate Said the tide knows what it's given — that is all The tide takes reservations, names, and shoes Turns your table to an island in the foam I watched her lantern crossing all the blues Some goodbyes row themselves home The boatman came when the plates were cleared Bare feet wet, rope between his teeth Asha paid from a matchbook she'd prepared Said nothing — just stepped over what was beneath I watched her lantern getting small on the foam Someone in the boat was rowing at the stern The Rock sat white above its Indian home And I had salt on my cuffs and no answer to earn
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